Day 10 Out of the city and into the countryside/Bamboo and alcohol
Our hosts are the most spectacular people on this planet. We came to see the Korean culture and they in turn immersed us deeply within it. No packaged tour or even a seasoned backpacker will ever experience half of what we have. As I near the halfway point of writing about this tour, I want everyone to realize that our hosts made this trip the best of our lives. We cried when we had to part ways with them. We had grown that close. I hope to someday reciprocate their overwhelming generosity and kindness.
Even though I may seem like I am playfully complaining half the time, I only do so for the benefit of my readers, namely all of you. A standard trip report simply giving the impression, “wish you were here” just makes us all jealous. Lets face it folks…we all secretly want to feel “shadenfreude.” This is a German word meaning happiness at someone else’s misfortunes. I aim for a personal connection between the reader so why not attempt to represent the broad spectrum of Canadians who would take note of the same cultural oddities that Mary and I do. These oddities may be perceived as calamities but in essence are simply an unpredictable but very enjoyable part of travelling.
For those of you unfamiliar with my strange style of writing, I might actually come across as not enjoying myself when I travel. However, it is quite the contrary. Every culture shock screams for a story I must share. That is what helps makes these stories all the more fun to write. So that being said, I hope our wonderful hosts have not disowned me. J I hope they write about Canada in the same fashion after they visit!
Mary and I spent the morning in our “stacked” motel room freshening up for the day’s events. We were taken to another authentic Korean restaurant where again, all footwear had to be removed and chairs were nowhere to be seen. Korean food is unbelievably scrumptious, nutritious and full of endless variety. However, today the variety tested my title as an adventuresome eater. All the regular side dishes appeared but one raw dish seemed to jump to life in front of me because of its texture and colour.
One side of the dish was filled with gelatine-like burgundy-colored cubes. The other side was filled with greyish strips covered in tiny spikes and hairs. Our host seemed quite interested in this delicacy. So was I. I tried it. The cubes were raw cow liver. The greyish strips were the raw lining of the cow’s stomach. I didn’t throw up and was actually commended for my bravery. I made it to the washroom to freshen up my mouth and promptly crushed my toes within the tiny slippers provided. As we left the restaurant, I realized how fresh the meat actually was. A butcher was hacking away at another side of beef right next to the cash register.
We travelled to a huge greenhouse on the outskirts of town. Inside was a miniature geographical map of South Korea made entirely from bonsai trees. It was spectacular. Afterwards we were shown a traditional Korean home in the process of being built. Both the house and greenhouse were personal projects of a friend of Apa’s.
We travelled through the Korean countryside and saw rolling green mountains, endless rice fields, lush trees with pink blossoms and well-maintained farms and houses. This was such a stark contrast to the congested cities. The roads were all in pristine condition with not a pothole or rough section anywhere. Tunnels were plentiful eliminating the necessity for curves around the mountains. It amazed me how well-maintained the infrastructure was considering how many millions of people used these roads every day. Perhaps everyone stayed in the cities and only built these roads for tourists. It sure seems that way…
We ended up at our first ever visit to a green tea farm. Folks, I can’t tell you how the mist, fog and nearby emerald green mountains made this place the most stunning visual experience of our trip. We praised the invention of a digital camera as we kept snapping away until the memory cards were full. It made for a long and laborious deletion process once we arrived home as countless pictures ended up looking like, well, tea leaves.
We drove high into the mountains and reached a secluded Buddhist temple. Since it was 6:00 p.m when we arrived, we were ushered into the dining area to receive a free curried vegetarian meal. It was delicious although Mary bit into something spicy that caused vulgar language to spew forth despite the presence of a monk.
Afterwards we visited a museum that highlighted some of the incredible achievements of our hosts’ ancestors. We climbed up a mountain where these ancestors apparently found solitude. We found a beautiful view with oppressive humidity. Then came our visit to a remote village where another friend of Apa hastily guided us inside his home. Before sunset, we did have the opportunity to explore the grounds and found numerous sizes of Kimchi pottery ready to serve their unique chemical function.
Curiously, beds are nowhere to be found in these homes. Blankets and pillows are stacked away during the day to save space. Most inhabitants sleep on the floor. One of the bathrooms didn’t even have a sink! When asked how they brushed their teeth or washed their hands, I was told they use the showerhead! An American girl was staying with this family while teaching English in a nearby village. It was our first encounter with a North American since we arrived. It felt strange to have an intruder disrupt our sense of cultural isolation. She seemed more grateful to see us though since her hosts could only speak very limited English.
After the meal of pork wrapped in leaves, kimchi, bean sauce and watermelons the owner of the house brought out a long stick of bamboo. He claimed he had saved this delicacy for a special occasion. The bamboo had been soaked in rice wine many years ago and absorbed it within each stalk. He cut open one stalk and served it to me. It was the most unique and rare alcoholic drink I’ve ever had. I can’t even remember what happened the rest of the evening after I was served my fifth stalk. Tune in next time for a story of our visit to a Korean school while it was in session. Thanks for reading!
