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A cute parrot.
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A friendly food vendor.
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A not so cute snake.
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Bella Vista
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Mary seems at ease.
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Ontario Hydro would protest.
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The tarantula.
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Times square Venezuela.
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Typical air conditioning store.
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Hello Travellers
We stayed on Margarita Island, approx. 30 km north of the Venezuelan mainland
from Dec 26th until Jan 3rd. Many of my fellow Canadian tourists are undoubtedly
still recovering from resort food-inflicted bodily malfunctions. This will not
be a report glorifying the all-inclusive resort. That is what those ridiculously
glossy travel brochures are for. I intend to explore why this vacation was
considered a disaster by the majority of my fellow Canadians.
The Hotel and surrounding area
We all know what a mirage is. Usually the human subconscious will construct a
mirage when faced with a vast, monotonous and threatening environment that knows
no boundaries. The city of Porlamar, located on Margarita Island is that
environment. Our hotel vainly and unsuccessfully presented itself as the mirage.
Our guide gleefully informed us not to venture outside the hotel after dark.
Muggings are a serious threat to all tourists. They were not kidding. A Canadian
tourist was struck in the ribs with a baseball bat while trying protect his wife
and her struggle to hold onto her purse. His wife then proceeded to smash a
bottle against the perpetrator's head. The wife of a couple we went walking with
nearly had her gold necklace torn off. This was in broad daylight. Stores hand
out merchandise through metal bars to their customers. This area was as close as
TWO BLOCKS from our hotel! Coincidently, this is also the area where our guide
recommended we change our money to the Venezuelan currency.
The Hotel is clean and the rooms are a decent size. Definitely not a 3.5 star
that it is advertised but it's not awful. We were fortunate to have a balcony
where as most of the people we spoke with had a lovely view of the parking
lot... with car alarms going off all night! Also, since we were there over New
Year's, people were constantly setting off fireworks and firecrackers everyday
at all hours of the day and night. If you were a jumpy kind of person, you
started to wonder if they were all firecrackers and not gun shots.
The Beach
Please envision white pristine sand, turquoise water, gently lapping waves,
tranquility only thought possible from listening to the sounds of Yanni or Kenny
G, fresh salt-laden air and gracefully hovering birds. Now envision the
opposite. Welcome to our beach. Yes, ladies and gentleman... a raw sewage pipe
leading into the water 100 meters down the beach from our hotel. Locals throwing
their cooking grease happily into the brown, murky mess. Barbed wire fences to
keep the locals off hotel property. Fisherman giving the cutthroat signal if you
wander too far in one direction. Stray dogs contributions turning the romantic
beach walk into a smelly game of hopscotch. Interesting how Go Travel Direct
advertised this hotel as having an ideal beach location. You couldn’t even sit
in a chair without getting a whiff of garbage or dog poop.
The Excursions
The highlight of our trip. We snorkelled around a shipwreck. We bounced along in
a jeep through rainforests high in the mountains. We traveled in those same
jeeps to beautiful secluded coastal beaches and even participated in a mud bath.
As with most poorer countries, once you leave the population center, you begin
to see the true beauty of the land. Make sure you book your excursions early. We
waiting in line for two hours our first day and were glad later that we did.
Many people were shut out since not all excursions run everyday. There were only
50 spots for snorkelling and more than 500 Go Travel Direct guests throughout
the various hotels in the area. All three of the tours we took were well worth
the money: Snorkelling for $45, Jeep Tour for $45, Island Highlights for $35.
(Prices are US$ and are approximations as you will pay in Boulivars).
The Language Barrier
No one spoke any English anywhere at our hotel (except the federalist
Canadians). This created quite a problem for check-in and check-out procedures,
towel distribution and most importantly ordering a drink at the bar. My wife
ordered the special three times within three hours and received three different
drinks. The bartenders seemed to enjoy the macabre act of crushing ice in a
blender more than getting drink orders right.
Bartering on the streets is also difficult. I suggest you bring a pen and paper
and write down what you want to offer. There isn't a lot of variety in what you
can buy from the local venders. Mostly tacky jewellery and such.
The Food
The advertisement for this resort indicated that there was a choice of three
restaurants. This was not true. The first night we were there, we had the choice
of...(drum roll please)...the buffet...or...go hungry. After much complaining from the
guests, pizza was included the second night. The "fancy" restaurant on the
second floor of the hotel was still not included by the end of our stay.
Not all Latin American countries have discovered spices. Venezuela seems to be
one of them. Imagine sticking a spoonful of flour in your mouth, letting it
congeal and then throw in some expired mayonnaise to moisten your palate. That
was our dining experience night after night. Over 75% of the hotel patrons
vomited at some point during our stay. An entire diving expedition was cancelled
one day because everyone called in sick. We surprisingly stayed healthy.
Breakfast usually consisted of hot dog wieners cut in into shapes that curiously
resembled baby carrots, slices of cheese that stuck together from the humidity
and could only be separated with a crowbar, hard-boiled eggs that curiously were
all pre-cracked in places and of course, watermelon juice. Watermelon does not
need to be made into juice.
Lunch usually consisted of five curious looking conglomerations of beef,
poultry, fish, pork and mystery meat. We didn't eat much of the meats and were
glad that we did. One day all of the people who ate the fish got sick.
Supper was usually the left-overs from lunch with the exciting additional of
food-colouring to heighten the visual appeal.
Desserts all looked different but all tasted the same... usually patrons only
took one bite and left the rest...
At the pizzeria, the average three hour wait resulted in us ordering take-out to
be delivered to the restaurant. Curiously, that move was applauded by many other
guests... Unfortunately the pizza guy on the scooter hassled the management
claiming our party paid him with a 5000 Bolivar note instead of a 50000 Bolivar
note. He was not allowed on the resort to argue his cause. We still don't know
how management dealt with him...
The snack bar is open for a couple of hours in the afternoon. However, there are
several hours between breakfast and lunch, and then from snack time to dinner
time where you cannot get food unless you buy it from the pool area bar. We have
never been at an all-inclusive where you couldn't get some kind of food from
7am-midnight.
Events that cannot be categorized
The first information our Go Travel Direct rep gave us was don't use the beach
and don't travel outside the hotel at night. Great first impression...
Our welcome drink at the hotel was non-alcoholic and tasted like a cheap version
of the orange drink McDonald's serves at kiddie baseball games...
Our shower curtain in the hotel room held water like a screen... hence the drain
in the middle of the bathroom floor.
Music was played at the resort from 7:00 a.m. in the morning until
midnight...loudly. Only one song too...called Chihuahua.
There are no stop signs or traffic lights. Intersections are basically
proceed-at-your-own risk endeavours. There are no crosswalks, just sprint-walks
to avoid getting run over...
New Years Eve featured the hotel staff illegally setting off fireworks bought
off the street. The manager lit the fireworks himself and ran like hell... Most
exploded within five feet of the nearest hotel patron...
Never complain about the state of Canadian roads and sidewalks ever again... you
know that feeling you have when you walk down the steps and don't realize there
is still one more? Sidewalk repair in Venezuela doesn't happen. Apparently in
Caracas, the capital city, sidewalks do not exist...
All residential apartment balconies have bars...wow, your own personal jail...
Broken bottles molded into the top of concrete walls serve as a deterrent to
enter private property... Sadly, if you do make it over your journey would
result in seeing the same scenery on the other side...
Money under the table is how 75% of the countries in the world operate.
Especially at our hotel. One of our friends indicated that hotel staff that
served him efficiently were on his payroll. Boy, was he ever right...
Margarita Island has almost every single ecosystem you can imagine at that
latitude. It makes for quite a geographical tour de force... Interestingly
enough, the water here is not turquoise for the most part due to the Atlantic
and Caribbean currents mixing. This creates quite an undertow which mixes up the
sediment on the ocean floor. This also prevents hurricanes from arriving since
there is not a strong, single current to follow.
Wrong Impressions...
We loved this vacation. It was not a nightmare contrary to the impression you
must have at this point. Why? Because travel is all about experience. When you
travel, you set yourself up to experience the good and the bad. We were
enlightened, we were disgruntled, we were horrified, we were exhilarated. We
made tons of new friends and are even having a "I Survived Margarita" Party very
soon. Their company while we were there made everything more bearable.
In Venezuela, the locals - like most people in the world - are genuine, friendly
and warm-hearted. It is unfortunate that corrupt government, mismanagement of
natural resources and a monetary system that has no tight control, produces some
harsh economic realities. There is no middle class here. Only the very rich and
the very poor.
Congratulations….
You made it to the end of our report!!! Just to put things in perspective for
you, we are a young couple and have travelled through more than 90% of Canada
and the US, much of Europe, and many places in the Caribbean. We are not fussy
and are very adaptable. Don't think that this report is written by travellers
expecting the comforts of home when away. We are very seasoned travellers but
prefer to know what we're getting into. The advertising of this resort was
completely wrong and they really aren't ready to cater to North American
tourists looking for a relaxing vacation. Most people travelling to the
Caribbean are not looking for a risky adventure in a
ride-on-the-seat-of-your-pants sort of way.
The Bottom Line
If you have already booked your trip... plan on booking excursions and getting off
the resort as much as possible. Make lots of friends while you're there and make
the most of your stay.
If you are thinking about booking...look elsewhere.
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